2003 Domaine du Pegau Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo - 100 pts - 750ml

“RP100 - Domaine de Pegau's magical 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo is a magnificent offering. Tipping the scales at 16.1% alcohol it boasts a blockbuster nose of dry vintage port intermixed with pepper herbes de Provence and roasted meats. Frightfully concentrated with layers of glycerin and fruit it should prove to be one of the appellation's greatest classics. More backward than either the 1998 or 2000 Capos it is an enormously endowed hugely concentrated exhilarating effort that will last for three decades or more. It is a strong candidate for the "wine of the vintage." Anticipated maturity: 2010-2035+. When I asked Laurence how she would describe this beauty she said "It consists of 80% of a great vintage of Chateauneuf du Pape 20% a vintage port and the rest some Syrah and other things we throw in for complexity."The 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee da Capo is usually a 4000-5000-bottle offering culled from the Cuvee Reservee most of it coming from La Crau. Even though all thirteen authorized varietals are included in the blend it is basically 95% Grenache. At least half of the wine in the cellar was of da Capo level but this cuvee still had some residual sugar to digest (which was a similar issue with the 2000). Patience is unquestionably necessary. Like Henri Bonneau with his famous Reserve des Celestins if you are willing to wait 2-3 years these things usually resolve themselves in favor of the wine. Nevertheless I could see that Laurence was a bit concerned that while this wine has mind-boggling potential she was growing impatient with how slow it was evolving. However I'm thrilled with what I saw as well as the fact that there is so much of it. I'm sure much of what I tasted will end up in the Cuvee Reservee making that wine even better. The wine is simply enormous and already measuring 16.3% natural alcohol. It is gloriously perfumed with a stunning Provencal essence of herbes de Provence ground pepper and a confiture of raspberries cherries and assorted black fruits. In the mouth it is even more massive than the 2000 or 1998. Unbelievably concentrated with huge amounts of glycerin this is a very special potentially monumental effort that hopefully Laurence and her father Paul will have the patience to see through until it finishes fermentation producing a glorious if not quintessential example of old vine Chateauneuf du Pape. If it all comes together it is the type of legendary effort that will last 30-40 years.”